[SML] jigsaws

[Paul G.]

I have used the "downstroke" blades and have a few of them... somewhere. I found them difficult to control unless I pushed down on the saw to keep the saw from bouncing. That being said, if I "have" to cut on the good side and I need a truly clean cut, I will use an Xacto or "Stanley" knife to cut along and on the layout line. I will then keep the blade on the waste side of the line when cutting.

For accuracy, I always adjust the blade "thrust" or "rotation" and speed to provide a bit of resistance to the cut. I have found that if there is little or no resistance, the blade will have a tendency to wander.

Of course, that could just be my technique.

All my Bosch "D" handle saws, including the 40year old Scintilla saw that changed blades with a special long thin screwdriver (that would mysteriously vanish at 1:00 a.m. when I was pulling an all-nighter before tech rehearsal) had a "lockable" trigger switch. The"D" handle still gets in the way. I can use the saw without problems besides the annoyance factor (I can see how it would be easier for someone with small hands... say a two to three year old. However, after repeated warnings from OSHA, I no longer employ toddlers in the shop... except for welding.) and the fact is that using the "D" style handle tires my wrist, so even when I use that type of saw, I use it like a barrel grip.

I also find the speed control built into the trigger switch (basically a detent to prevent pushing the switch past a certain point) to "not work" quite often as my trigger finger would spin the little adjustment wheel. I don't know if Bosch still uses that type of trigger.

Another technique I use when I cut is to use two hands, might right hand pushes the saw, usually from the top of the rear end, and the thumb and forefinger of my left hand rest on the front of and lightly pinch the base plate on the left corner by the blade. This gives me good control. 

Depending on the illumination level where I'm cutting, I tape a small single AA flashlight to the front of the saw so i can see the cut.

That all being said, I have an older Cutawl that I would be willing to sell if anyone is interested. Prolly around a couple hundred bucks plus shipping... includes whatever blades and other parts I have. Email me if interested and I'll dig it out and see what I've got. 

Cutawl note: a friend and prop master used to de-temper the tang end of his blades with a propane torch. He maintained that doing so extended the life of the blades substantially as they wouldn't break as easily. If anyone is interested, I can contact him and inquire about his technique.

Laters,

Paul 1