[SML] Floor renovation

[Richard Niederberg]

Dear Nancy,
Whatever is available on sale that day a local Big Box store, probably one
that has orange exterior décor. As long as the hardboard is hardened
on both sides, unwarped, and fully painted, it doesn't make that much
difference who the manufacturer was.
/s/ Richard
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On Thu, Nov 9, 2017 at 9:19 AM, Nancy Christian via Stagecraft <
stagecraft at theatrical.net> wrote:

> Richard,
>
>
>
> Which DPI hardboard do you use?
>
>
>
>
>
> Nancy Christian
>
> Technical Coordinator
>
> Performing Arts Center
>
> Victor Valley College
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* Stagecraft [mailto:stagecraft-bounces at theatrical.net] *On Behalf
> Of *Richard John Archer via Stagecraft
> *Sent:* Tuesday, November 07, 2017 11:43 AM
> *To:* Stagecraft Mailing List <stagecraft at theatrical.net>
> *Cc:* Richard John Archer <rja10 at cornell.edu>
> *Subject:* Re: [SML] Floor renovation
>
>
>
> I too us sacrificial masonite ( tempered hardboard—DPI  if I can get it).
> We align the DS edge with the plaster line and  the center on the CL  of
> the stage.  Then lay the floor in a running bond pattern.   Certainly helps
> when laying things out and you don’t need exacting dimensions.
>
>
>
>  I put strips of black plastic  under the cracks (maybe 6” wide….and FR of
> course).  This means paint doesn’t drip down  and leave a little paint
> ridges on the  stage floor.   We repaint the maso floor often so it’s down
> with brads.  Presently we’ve had good luck with Ben Moore Ultra Spec 500
> eggshell or semi gloss. Not as black as some but  looks good down, mops
> clean easily (we often use a machine to clean) ;  no VO;, dries quickly;
> and no lap marks…even when you go back over a missed area.  Not cheap at
> retail  but we get a huge discount.
>
>
>
> When I was doing regional theatre the maso deck was often show specific
>  and pre-painted in the shops.  We pre drilled counter sunk holes then
> installed on stage using 1” black drywall screws
>
> On Nov 7, 2017, at 2:18 PM, Richard Niederberg via Stagecraft <
> stagecraft at theatrical.net> wrote:
>
>
>
> Dear Bill,
>
> I've found that after about 30 coats of the same Black Paint over
> Hardboard, over time, the stage surface becomes much more forgiving to
> piercing, scratches, and other damage. I use 1 1/4" x 1/4" strips of Lathe
> under the Hardboard for the right 'give', and pennies as spacers.
>
> /s/ Richard
>
>
>
> On Tue, Nov 7, 2017 at 10:59 AM, Bill Conner via Stagecraft <
> stagecraft at theatrical.net> wrote:
>
> Good advice above.  Lots of stages with varying floors - blond
> hardwood downstage, pine or hardboard upstage, concrete in wings
> (which I detest).
>
> You could paint it all but covering all with hardboard is a good plan.
> Difficult to find good hardboard today.  Just a few mills that make it
> like they use to.
>
> I use to specify Rosco Tough Prime black satin but had some peeling
> problems and learned  they changed the formulation.  Did some research
> and testing and settled on PPG Breakthough in wrought iron (black) and
> satin.  Pretty happy with it.
>
> Good luck
>
> --
> Bill Conner Fellow of the ASTC
>
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>
>
> --
>
> /s/ Richard
> _________
>
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> [image: Seal of VVC]
>
> *Nancy Christian, *
> *TD, Performing Arts Center | Performing Arts Center*
> Victor Valley College
> 18422 Bear Valley Road
> Victorville, CA 92395
> *Office*: Bldg. 54 Room 10
> *Email*: Nancy.Christian at vvc.edu
> *Phone*: (760) 245-4271 ext 2513 <(760)%20245-4271>
>
> ------------------------------
>
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-- 
/s/ Richard
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