[SML] Skinny screws
Maia Robbins-Zust
mrzust at gmail.com
Mon Apr 5 05:49:32 UTC 2021
Used to call that that the Poor (wo)man's drill bit.
Drive it in reverse, then forward til you start to hear the wood cracking,
then reverse drill again, then forward, repeat til you get all the way
there without splitting it.
Lumber prices are crazy now!
One trick on the 1"x -- I find it's cheaper to by 1"× 6" and rip it down.
You can rip it in half (2.75"-ish) or specifically rip to 2.5". You do
loose some to breakage due to knots that are wider than the 2.5", but it's
still cheaper than buying 1"× 3".
Maia Robbins-Zust
Technical Director
Williams College Department of Theatre
On Wed, Mar 17, 2021, 1:28 PM DeLand, Justin via Stagecraft <
stagecraft at theatrical.net> wrote:
> Another trick I have used enough to mention is to, instead of drilling a
> pilot hole, start by driving the screw in reverse, then once it has started
> to create its own little divot, flip the direction of the screw gun and
> drive it home.
>
> You will still split from time to time, but it might be worth a try if
> that is acceptable.
>
> -Justin
>
> On 3/17/21, 8:01 AM, "Stagecraft on behalf of
> stagecraft-request at theatrical.net" <stagecraft-bounces at theatrical.net on
> behalf of stagecraft-request at theatrical.net> wrote:
>
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> >
>
>
> Today's Topics:
>
> 1. Re: Skinny screws? (Dan Sheehan)
> 2. Re: [External] Skinny screws? (Dave Vick)
> 3. Re: [External] Skinny screws? (Paul Guncheon)
> 4. Re: [External] Skinny screws? (Joe)
> 5. 1940s kitchen (Joe)
> 6. SF Bay Area housing (Jerry Durand)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2021 08:09:40 -0400
> From: Dan Sheehan <dsheehan.sml at gmail.com>
> To: Joe <jdunfee12 at yahoo.com>, Stagecraft Mailing List
> <stagecraft at theatrical.net>
> Subject: Re: [SML] Skinny screws?
> Message-ID:
> <
> CAF5K5-Wik5+zNcLjg9bP_HcqGgOEUB3_udj_bh42xCDtZNXs3w at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> I nearly always drill clearance hole in top piece, sometimes pilot
> hole in
> bottom piece.
> Few seconds saves time in long run.
> Stuff goes together cleaner, tighter, faster, straighter (and doesn't
> split).
> And comes apart faster and easier.
> YMMV
>
> On Mon, Mar 15, 2021 at 9:00 PM Joe via Stagecraft <
> stagecraft at theatrical.net> wrote:
>
> > Locally lumber has jumped in price, so we are looking at trying to
> use
> > less lumber. We typically use 2x3 for most of what we build, not
> because
> > we need the strength of a 2x3, but because it can take a lot of
> abuse and
> > not split on us. Personally, I prefer to go with lighter weight
> builds if
> > I can. It is just easier to handle. But, 2x2 is a little more prone
> to
> > splitting, and 1x2 is very much more likely. I know drilling a
> pilot hole
> > helps, but that takes an extra step.
> >
> > We typically use standard drywall screws. I see there are fine thread
> > drywall screws, but when I look up the O.D. and Root diameters, they
> are
> > the same as coarse thread drywall #6 screws.
> >
> > Today, I tried to use 1x2 as much as possible for a gas range set
> piece
> > from the 40's. I was careful to drill pilot holes anytime I went
> into the
> > 3/4" side of the 1x2. And I didn't have any problems.
> >
> > We have also shifted to using Hardboard instead of Luan. At $9.19
> for a
> > 4x8, it is a lot cheaper. But, I find it frustrating that it is only
> 48
> > 3/4" wide. I am sure that is for a reason in some applications. But,
> I
> > prefer a true 4'x8' sheet.
> >
> > Any other ideas?
> >
> > -Joe
> > ____________________________________________________________
> > For list information see <
> https://nam12.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fstagecraft.theprices.net%2F&data=04%7C01%7Cjustin.deland%40yale.edu%7Cec4e419e57624474bd8308d8e93c6edc%7Cdd8cbebb21394df8b4114e3e87abeb5c%7C0%7C0%7C637515793060728491%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=SKLAR4mZ%2FjGUZhsqWSA4T5oDCBFs5o0DM2BpR2j3g2c%3D&reserved=0
> >
> > Stagecraft mailing list
> > Stagecraft at theatrical.net
> >
> https://nam12.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Ftheatrical.net%2Fmailman%2Flistinfo%2Fstagecraft_theatrical.net&data=04%7C01%7Cjustin.deland%40yale.edu%7Cec4e419e57624474bd8308d8e93c6edc%7Cdd8cbebb21394df8b4114e3e87abeb5c%7C0%7C0%7C637515793060738449%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=kBypzss5KY4wc9ZkPO6Xr4l4QXa2ozWtAo7Vi%2BGPQ58%3D&reserved=0
> >
>
>
> --
> ...Dan Sheehan
> Fixer of things that break
> TD Walpole (MA) Footlighters
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>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2021 08:54:11 -0400
> From: Dave Vick <dave.vick at gmail.com>
> To: Stagecraft Mailing List <stagecraft at theatrical.net>
> Subject: Re: [SML] [External] Skinny screws?
> Message-ID:
> <CAEy8B2m2NjC+C4=
> P1sQwGKdKf6YFmANwMjJCckTJADAjHR-r1A at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Home Depot carries GRK trim screws.
>
> --
> Dave
>
>
> On Tue, Mar 16, 2021 at 7:58 AM Stephen Rees via Stagecraft <
> stagecraft at theatrical.net> wrote:
>
> > They are a bit more spendy, but maybe something like a GRK Trim Screw
> > would work for you. My lumber yard carries them but you might find
> them
> > online as well. Try Googling GRK and see what you find.
> > Steve
> >
> > Stephen E. Rees, Treasurer - Revitalize Dunkirk
> > Professor Emeritus of Theatre
> > CCE-CC Master Gardener Volunteer
> > 716.366.0505 Home
> > 716.680.1565 Mobile
> >
> >
> >
> > On Mon, Mar 15, 2021 at 8:59 PM Joe via Stagecraft <
> > stagecraft at theatrical.net> wrote:
> >
> >> Locally lumber has jumped in price, so we are looking at trying to
> use
> >> less lumber. We typically use 2x3 for most of what we build, not
> because
> >> we need the strength of a 2x3, but because it can take a lot of
> abuse and
> >> not split on us. Personally, I prefer to go with lighter weight
> builds if
> >> I can. It is just easier to handle. But, 2x2 is a little more
> prone to
> >> splitting, and 1x2 is very much more likely. I know drilling a
> pilot hole
> >> helps, but that takes an extra step.
> >>
> >> We typically use standard drywall screws. I see there are fine
> thread
> >> drywall screws, but when I look up the O.D. and Root diameters,
> they are
> >> the same as coarse thread drywall #6 screws.
> >>
> >> Today, I tried to use 1x2 as much as possible for a gas range set
> piece
> >> from the 40's. I was careful to drill pilot holes anytime I went
> into the
> >> 3/4" side of the 1x2. And I didn't have any problems.
> >>
> >> We have also shifted to using Hardboard instead of Luan. At $9.19
> for a
> >> 4x8, it is a lot cheaper. But, I find it frustrating that it is
> only 48
> >> 3/4" wide. I am sure that is for a reason in some applications.
> But, I
> >> prefer a true 4'x8' sheet.
> >>
> >> Any other ideas?
> >>
> >> -Joe
> >> ____________________________________________________________
> >> For list information see <
> https://nam12.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fstagecraft.theprices.net%2F&data=04%7C01%7Cjustin.deland%40yale.edu%7Cec4e419e57624474bd8308d8e93c6edc%7Cdd8cbebb21394df8b4114e3e87abeb5c%7C0%7C0%7C637515793060738449%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=S0AFdHhHHk1ulV26QBXSqnXtg4wcTJwktVscfEOnpTA%3D&reserved=0
> >
> >> Stagecraft mailing list
> >> Stagecraft at theatrical.net
> >>
> https://nam12.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Ftheatrical.net%2Fmailman%2Flistinfo%2Fstagecraft_theatrical.net&data=04%7C01%7Cjustin.deland%40yale.edu%7Cec4e419e57624474bd8308d8e93c6edc%7Cdd8cbebb21394df8b4114e3e87abeb5c%7C0%7C0%7C637515793060738449%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=kBypzss5KY4wc9ZkPO6Xr4l4QXa2ozWtAo7Vi%2BGPQ58%3D&reserved=0
> >>
> > ____________________________________________________________
> > For list information see <
> https://nam12.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fstagecraft.theprices.net%2F&data=04%7C01%7Cjustin.deland%40yale.edu%7Cec4e419e57624474bd8308d8e93c6edc%7Cdd8cbebb21394df8b4114e3e87abeb5c%7C0%7C0%7C637515793060738449%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=S0AFdHhHHk1ulV26QBXSqnXtg4wcTJwktVscfEOnpTA%3D&reserved=0
> >
> > Stagecraft mailing list
> > Stagecraft at theatrical.net
> >
> https://nam12.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Ftheatrical.net%2Fmailman%2Flistinfo%2Fstagecraft_theatrical.net&data=04%7C01%7Cjustin.deland%40yale.edu%7Cec4e419e57624474bd8308d8e93c6edc%7Cdd8cbebb21394df8b4114e3e87abeb5c%7C0%7C0%7C637515793060738449%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=kBypzss5KY4wc9ZkPO6Xr4l4QXa2ozWtAo7Vi%2BGPQ58%3D&reserved=0
> >
> --
> Dave Vick
> 517-749-3859
> Sent from my #%!^?? iPhone
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> >
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2021 09:48:34 -0400
> From: Paul Guncheon <pguncheon at gmail.com>
> To: Stagecraft <stagecraft at theatrical.net>
> Subject: Re: [SML] [External] Skinny screws?
> Message-ID:
> <
> CAP-H7sizJiC5Wn_DrES8esrj7VTv-xO4A3OCnLme5py4JuUdUw at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> I have to be brief right now but there a couple of reasons why your
> wood is
> splitting. One is the size of the screw... that's true. Also
> responsible is
> the shape of the screw. Drywall and wood screws are cone shaped,
> creating a
> wedge that forces the wood fibers apart the deeper it is inserted. Try
> sheet metal screws, they're cylinders.
>
> Coarse-thread screws ("grabbers" as I recall) meant for wood while the
> fine
> thread ("streakers"). The streakers will not hold as well as the
> grabbers
> in wood but can still split it.
>
> I usually staple, finish nail, or brad thin coverings to wood... with
> or
> without glue. The only times I can think of when I screwed 14 or 1/8"
> ply
> to wood was when I didn't have access to pneumatic tools and it was too
> risky to bang away at it with a hammer.
>
> An old carpenter's trick when nailing to prevent splitting is to lay a
> headed nail on its side to the edge of the "head" is across the grain
> at
> the location you wish to install the nail or screw. Bang the nail head
> into
> the wood as far as it will go. One hammer strike will do it. Remove the
> sideways nail and install the nail or screw in the depression. It works
> often enough for me to describe it here.
>
> What are you building?
>
> Laters,
>
> Paul 1
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> >
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2021 15:59:40 +0000 (UTC)
> From: Joe <jdunfee12 at yahoo.com>
> To: Dave Vick via Stagecraft <stagecraft at theatrical.net>
> Subject: Re: [SML] [External] Skinny screws?
> Message-ID: <698831871.1613578.1615910380649 at mail.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> I checked out the GRK trim screws.? However, the smallest diameter
> they offer is a #8, which is larger than the #6 gauge that drywall screws
> have in sizes up to 2 1/4" long.? I did find another brand, Pro-Twist, that
> went down to #6 gauge.? So, at least for our purposes, the traditional
> drywall screws are a better choice.
>
> -Joe
>
>
>
> On Tue, Mar 16, 2021 at 7:58 AM Stephen Rees via Stagecraft <
> stagecraft at theatrical.net> wrote:
>
> They are a bit more spendy, but maybe something like a GRK Trim Screw
> would work for you. My lumber yard carries them but you might find them
> online as well.? Try Googling GRK and see what you find.Steve
>
>
> On Mon, Mar 15, 2021 at 8:59 PM Joe via Stagecraft <
> stagecraft at theatrical.net> wrote:
>
> Locally lumber has jumped in price, so we are looking at trying to use
> less lumber.? We typically use 2x3 for most of what we build, not because
> we need the strength of a 2x3, but because it can take a lot of abuse and
> not split on us.? Personally, I prefer to go with lighter weight builds if
> I can.? It is just easier to handle. But, 2x2 is a little more prone to
> splitting, and 1x2 is very much more likely.? I know drilling a pilot hole
> helps, but that takes an extra step.
> We typically use standard drywall screws. I see there are fine thread
> drywall screws, but when I look up the O.D. and Root diameters, they are
> the same as coarse thread drywall #6 screws.
> Today, I tried to use 1x2 as much as possible for a gas range set
> piece from the 40's.? I was careful to drill pilot holes anytime I went
> into the 3/4" side of the 1x2. And I didn't have any problems.
> We have also? shifted to using Hardboard instead of Luan. At $9.19 for
> a 4x8, it is a lot cheaper. But, I find it frustrating that it is only 48
> 3/4" wide. I am sure that is for a reason in some applications. But, I
> prefer a true 4'x8' sheet.
> Any other ideas?
>
>
>
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> >
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2021 16:21:58 +0000 (UTC)
> From: Joe <jdunfee12 at yahoo.com>
> To: Paul Guncheon via Stagecraft <stagecraft at theatrical.net>
> Subject: [SML] 1940s kitchen
> Message-ID: <239895616.1615770.1615911718689 at mail.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> From the Skiny Screws thread, Paul Guncheon via Stagecraft <
> stagecraft at theatrical.net> wrote:
> >What are you building?My question about screws was generic, so it is
> avariety of things.
>
> Right now I am buliding for Diary of Anne Frank. The actors are on
> stage a lot of time, so they need busy work to do. The kitchen will be an
> active area.
>
> The two items that are my own task, are a 1930's era gas cook stove
> and a sink.? For the stove base,? took an end table with cabriole legs, and
> removed the top.? I got a gas cook top from an auction for a few dollars,
> and am using the burner grill from that for the stove top.
> The sink will look like a white enameled sink. These typically
> protrude above the counter top about 1/2".? I have a hutch base that is
> mising a door. So, will just cut a hole, and add some 1/2" ply scraps to
> form the sink, and with my routner apply 1/2" fillet around it.? The
> missing doors will be handled by using curtains (probably looking like
> flour sacks) in the openings.
>
> -Joe
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>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 6
> Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2021 17:18:55 -0700
> From: Jerry Durand <jdurand at durandinterstellar.com>
> To: Stagecraft Mailing List <stagecraft at theatrical.net>
> Subject: [SML] SF Bay Area housing
> Message-ID:
> <9beb2bbc-e1ff-4042-aa7f-28d7130204e6 at durandinterstellar.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> It's getting to time all our stuff FINALLY ships out to the new
> house/office/shop.? We have to be out of this house the first week of
> April, but it's looking like our visa business exemption to let us cross
> the border won't be done in time.
>
> So... my wife and I will need a place to stay in the greater SF Bay
> Area (by greater, nearby states are acceptable).? It will be us and our
> suitcases, so a low cost room with double bed is all that's required.? We
> do not, by any means, need fancy, room service, etc.? We can even help out
> with stuff (stagecrafters don't mind work).
>
> If you have or know of such a place, please contact me off-list.
>
> We're looking forward to starting up our business again... "soon".
>
> ?---
> Jerry Durand
>
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