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<div class="">I too us sacrificial masonite ( tempered hardboard—DPI if I can get it). We align the DS edge with the plaster line and the center on the CL of the stage. Then lay the floor in a running bond pattern. Certainly helps when laying things
out and you don’t need exacting dimensions. </div>
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I put strips of black plastic under the cracks (maybe 6” wide….and FR of course). This means paint doesn’t drip down and leave a little paint ridges on the stage floor. We repaint the maso floor often so it’s down with brads. Presently we’ve had good
luck with Ben Moore Ultra Spec 500 eggshell or semi gloss. Not as black as some but looks good down, mops clean easily (we often use a machine to clean) ; no VO;, dries quickly; and no lap marks…even when you go back over a missed area. Not cheap at retail
but we get a huge discount.
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<div class="">When I was doing regional theatre the maso deck was often show specific and pre-painted in the shops. We pre drilled counter sunk holes then installed on stage using 1” black drywall screws<br class="">
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<blockquote type="cite" class="">
<div class="">On Nov 7, 2017, at 2:18 PM, Richard Niederberg via Stagecraft <<a href="mailto:stagecraft@theatrical.net" class="">stagecraft@theatrical.net</a>> wrote:</div>
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<div class="">Dear Bill,</div>
<div class="">I've found that after about 30 coats of the same Black Paint over Hardboard, over time, the stage surface becomes much more forgiving to piercing, scratches, and other damage. I use 1 1/4" x 1/4" strips of Lathe under the Hardboard for the right
'give', and pennies as spacers.</div>
<div class="">/s/ Richard</div>
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<div class="gmail_extra"><br class="">
<div class="gmail_quote">On Tue, Nov 7, 2017 at 10:59 AM, Bill Conner via Stagecraft
<span dir="ltr" class=""><<a href="mailto:stagecraft@theatrical.net" target="_blank" class="">stagecraft@theatrical.net</a>></span> wrote:<br class="">
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">
Good advice above. Lots of stages with varying floors - blond<br class="">
hardwood downstage, pine or hardboard upstage, concrete in wings<br class="">
(which I detest).<br class="">
<br class="">
You could paint it all but covering all with hardboard is a good plan.<br class="">
Difficult to find good hardboard today. Just a few mills that make it<br class="">
like they use to.<br class="">
<br class="">
I use to specify Rosco Tough Prime black satin but had some peeling<br class="">
problems and learned they changed the formulation. Did some research<br class="">
and testing and settled on PPG Breakthough in wrought iron (black) and<br class="">
satin. Pretty happy with it.<br class="">
<br class="">
Good luck<br class="">
<span class="HOEnZb"><font color="#888888" class=""><br class="">
--<br class="">
Bill Conner Fellow of the ASTC<br class="">
<br class="">
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<br class="">
-- <br class="">
<div class="gmail_signature" data-smartmail="gmail_signature">/s/ Richard<br class="">
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