<div dir="auto"><br></div><div dir="auto"><span style="color:rgb(49,49,49);word-spacing:1px">Thomas (Tom) Marhenke" <</span><a href="mailto:tmarhenk@hamilton.edu" target="_blank" style="font-size:1rem;word-spacing:1px">tmarhenk@hamilton.edu</a><span style="color:rgb(49,49,49);word-spacing:1px">></span> Wrote:</div><div dir="auto"><br></div><div dir="auto"><<.....<span style="color:rgb(49,49,49);word-spacing:1px">Working on a show and the designer would like to mount 2 ceiling fans,</span></div><div dir="auto"><span style="color:rgb(49,49,49);word-spacing:1px">each, onto 3 battens. He wants 96" industrial fans. I am concerned about</span><br style="color:rgb(49,49,49);word-spacing:1px"><span style="color:rgb(49,49,49);word-spacing:1px">the battens moving with the fans and the down pipe on the fan causing</span><br style="color:rgb(49,49,49);word-spacing:1px"><span style="color:rgb(49,49,49);word-spacing:1px">issues. The battens have to move in and out. >></span><br></div><div dir="auto"><span style="color:rgb(49,49,49);word-spacing:1px"><br></span></div><div dir="auto"><span style="color:rgb(49,49,49);word-spacing:1px">IF, IF, you exhaust all other alternatives and absolutely have to have the fans and they must be moving, consider the following steps:</span></div><div dir="auto"><span style="color:rgb(49,49,49);word-spacing:1px">1. Hard mount the stem (down pipe) to the batten with a “C†clamp, truss clamp or other rigid mount to reduce sway, swing or bounce. If the stem does not hang directly below the batten, a second clamp at each position with a “counterweight†might be needed to prevent batten roll and an upstage/downstage angle on the fan drop stem.</span></div><div dir="auto"><span style="color:rgb(49,49,49);word-spacing:1px">2. If the fans have forward/reverse switches, set the fans on each batten to rotate in opposite directions. If they do not have direction switches, have a competent person to adjust the wiring on half the fans. </span></div><div dir="auto"><span style="color:rgb(49,49,49);word-spacing:1px">3. Bend or twist or otherwise “adjust†the blade brackets to achieve a zero degree blade angle.</span></div><div dir="auto"><span style="color:rgb(49,49,49);word-spacing:1px">4. Balance each fan if/as needed to reduce wobble. A 3/4â€-1/4â€20 stove bolt is one possible method.</span></div><div dir="auto"><font color="#313131"><span style="word-spacing:1px">5. If side sway is still experienced, diagonal braces to the batten may be necessary. Either hard, such as 1/2†conduit, or “soft†such as 16†GAC will work.</span></font></div><div dir="auto"><font color="#313131"><span style="word-spacing:1px">6. Speed control is a must, both individually and collectively. Perform trial runs with both side and vertical masking in place. Check with HVAC on and off. Adjust and correct as needed.</span></font></div><div dir="auto"><font color="#313131"><span style="word-spacing:1px"><br></span></font></div><div dir="auto"><font color="#313131"><span style="word-spacing:1px">Hope this helps.</span></font></div><div dir="auto"><br></div><div dir="auto"><br></div><div dir="auto"><br></div><div dir="auto"><br></div>-- <br><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_signature" data-smartmail="gmail_signature">Michael Powers<br>USMC ’66-’68<br>ETCP cert. rigger #820 (ret’d)</div>