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We've never done a front lit stained glass window, but we have used UV on a low budget. My suggestion would be to buy the fixture and test before you commit fully. In my experience only the very expensive Wildfire fixtures (or some moving lights) have the
output to activate UV sensitive materials at a level that can compete with the rest of the light onstage, unless the scene is very dimly lit. If there's a cheap fixture that will work for this now I'd like to know!</div>
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Testing is in order. I<span style="background-color: transparent; color: inherit;">t may be whiteners in detergent or sizing that makes the cotton fabric UV reactive. </span></div>
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You could try painting your window on projection screen material? It might be reflective enough when front lit unless the paint is too opaque.</div>
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I would suggest clear acrylic medium rather than gelatin as a binder for all-tint or dye. It can stick to itself when dry so use a wax paper sheet inside when rolling the finished drop. Or you can paint directly on cotton with aniline dyes, no binder needed.</div>
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If you want the leading to have thickness, we have used a couple methods. Black caulking was fairly cheap, fussy to apply well, and had to sit for a couple days before being set enough to handle. Thin neoprene weather stripping was not too expensive in a
giant roll from McMaster and stuck to acrylic quite well. I'm not sure how well it would stick to muslin.</div>
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Let us know how this project turns out.</div>
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<div style="font-family:Calibri,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size:12pt; color:rgb(0,0,0)">
Duncan Mahoney</div>
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Head of Technical Direction</div>
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Professor of Theater Practice in Production</div>
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University of Southern California School of Dramatic Arts</div>
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