<html><head><meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8"></head><body style="overflow-wrap: break-word; -webkit-nbsp-mode: space; line-break: after-white-space;">Experiment how much extra wattage you need to get the dimmers to work properly. I was able to use a 35w lamp with a row of LED rope light on our houselight dimmers. I never tried anything smaller. You might be able to find one “matching” incandescent lamp to match the LEDs in the sign. If not, maybe 15-35 watt lamp hidden behind the lit sign would not need to be enclosed and build up much heat. <div><br></div><div>Greg Bierly<br><div><br><blockquote type="cite"><div>On Apr 22, 2025, at 1:34 AM, Joe via Stagecraft <stagecraft@theatrical.net> wrote:</div><br class="Apple-interchange-newline"><div><div><div class="ydpda38f2dayahoo-style-wrap" style="font-family:Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;font-size:16px;" dir="ltr" data-setdir="false">I am helping with a production, where we made an old-fashioned illuminated sign, where there are bare bulbs inserted inside the letters. I.e. a "bulb letter" sign. I chose to use screw-in LED light bulb strings, because I knew they wouldn't get hot, and I could just cut the letters out from foam board. However, I forgot that many (most?) DMX dimmer packs tend to let a little electricity through. This results in the inability to turn the LED lights off entirely, and sometimes, in them flickering.</div><div class="ydpda38f2dayahoo-style-wrap" style="font-family:Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;font-size:16px;" dir="ltr" data-setdir="false"><br></div><div class="ydpda38f2dayahoo-style-wrap" style="font-family:Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;font-size:16px;" dir="ltr" data-setdir="false">Aside from purchasing more modern dimmer packs, that know to cut the power totally off when dimmed down to zero, I recall that one solution was to plug in a dummy load. I experimented with a curling iron, and it worked well. Though, actually it was hard to find one, even in a thrift store, that didn't have a digital temperature setting. Those default to off if just plugged them in to power it up. Analog stuff is disappearing.</div><div class="ydpda38f2dayahoo-style-wrap" style="font-family:Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;font-size:16px;" dir="ltr" data-setdir="false"><br></div><div class="ydpda38f2dayahoo-style-wrap" style="font-family:Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;font-size:16px;" dir="ltr" data-setdir="false">I vaguely recall the idea of using a 100 watt bulb in a Par Can, with a black foil "gel" to block the light. But, I am hesitant to have hot items backstage anymore, especially for a small scale performance that will be touring to a few non-traditional performing spaces. Any other suggestions?</div><div class="ydpda38f2dayahoo-style-wrap" style="font-family:Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;font-size:16px;" dir="ltr" data-setdir="false"><br></div><div class="ydpda38f2dayahoo-style-wrap" style="font-family:Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;font-size:16px;" dir="ltr" data-setdir="false">-Joe</div></div>____________________________________________________________<br>For list information see <http://stagecraft.theprices.net/><br>Stagecraft mailing list<br>Stagecraft@theatrical.net<br>http://theatrical.net/mailman/listinfo/stagecraft_theatrical.net<br></div></blockquote></div><br></div></body></html>