[SML] Lighting instrument Paint

C. Andrew Dunning cad at landrudesign.com
Mon Feb 2 22:45:04 UTC 2015


Thanks, everyone, for the input.  It seems that, while the Rust Oleum can
didn't say anything (that I could find) about a long waiting time, it seems
the Ace can did.  I had assumed a couple of days was adequate.  It seems
that 5-6 is more like it.  Ya learn something every day, I guess.

As to surface prep., a couple of volunteers gave things a good cleaning w.
lacquer thinner.  I didn't see much (if any) change in coverage, but will
wait the allotted time to see how things cure.  One never knows...

Have a good one and thanks, again!

- Andy

-----Original Message-----
From: Stagecraft [mailto:stagecraft-bounces at theatrical.net] On Behalf Of
Dale Farmer via Stagecraft
Sent: Monday, February 02, 2015 11:32 AM
To: stagecraft at theatrical.net
Subject: Re: [SML] Lighting instrument Paint

Oil and grease are always present if you have people in the room.    Try 
including a wipedown with paint thinner or other solvent before priming and
painting.  This also removes dust and cruft remaining from sanding.
Wrinkling and bubbling as soon as the second coat hits the first happens
usually because the first coat hasn't cured enough or hasn't adhered to the
underlying metal.  Sometimes you have chemical incompatibilities 
between the two paints that will cause this.   Read the directions on 
your paints carefully on drying and recoating times.  colder air temps 
will affect these times, and affect adhesion to the underlying metal.    
Generally all of the primers and paints from a single brand will be 
compatible, not so much if you cross brands.    Specialty paints like 
high heat paints require careful attention for this.

New paint on top of an old paint or powdercoating requires some 
preparation also.   clean off the surface, rough it up with some steel 
wool or something to give the paint something to grip upon, and pay
attention to your dry and recoat times.

   --Dale

On 2/2/2015 10:24 AM, C. Andrew Dunning via Stagecraft wrote:
> Gents -
>
> In terms of prep, I'm using steel-wool.  Oil/grease really isn't an 
> issue in this venue.  And, some of the frames I'm painting are new and 
> simply "becoming" black.
>
> What I'm seeing seems to be a chemical reaction.  Within seconds of 
> the new paint hitting the previous, I seen wrinkling and bubbling.
>
> - Andy
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Stagecraft [mailto:stagecraft-bounces at theatrical.net] On Behalf 
> Of Dan Sheehan via Stagecraft
> Sent: Monday, February 02, 2015 9:04 AM
> To: Stagecraft Mailing List
> Subject: Re: [SML] Lighting instrument Paint
>
>>> Bruce Purdy wrote
>>          Are you doing any prep to the instruments before painting?
> same thing I thought
>
> paint-not-sticking is very rarely the fault of the paint
>
> I'd try a detergent (Pine Sol ? TSP-replacement?) and/or solvent 
> (Liquid Sandpaper TM or similar) cleaning, then wire brush, steel 
> wool, or sandpaper.
>
> Slightly possible, but unlikely,  the solvent in the new paint is 
> eating the old paint,
>
> HTH
> --
> ...Dan Sheehan
> Fixer of things that break
>
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